Southern Laos travel guide

Southern Laos, bordered on the west by the Mekong (with Thailand on the far side), with Cambodia to the south and Vietnam across the mountains to the east, offers a great diversity of attractions in close proximity. Some of the larger towns have large Vietnamese and Chinese populations and feel distinctly Indochinese, while Champasak still carries the unexpected air of a former tiny Lao royal principality. Travellers seeking insights into ancient history and culture will want to linger at the Khmer temple of Wat Phu, while the Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) region will fascinate those with an interest in geology, colonial relics, natural beauty and current Lao rural lifestyle. The temperate Bolaven Plateau is home to a number of Mon-Khmer minorities; it offers superlative natural beauty, but still bears some scars from the Second Indochina War. Attapeu is, literally, the end of the road in southern Laos ­– but this is precisely its appeal.

Places to see in Southern Laos

Wat Phu, Champasak

The best way to reach Champasak is to take a boat 30km (19-mile) down the Mekong from the town of Pakse. This sleepy townonce served as the administrative centre for the region, and the residence of Champasak’s royal family when it was an independent kingdom. The main attraction is splendid Wat Phu, 9km (5.5 miles) south of town. The temple is situated next to the dramatic mountain of Phu Pasak and is a magnificent complex dating from the 6th century.

Wat Phu is famous for its boon (festival) which attracts visitors from throughout Laos and beyond every February. During the three-day event Wat Phu is filled with pilgrims who make offerings at various sites of the temple complex, particularly the sacred yoni and the elephant and crocodile carvings. On the final day of the festival monks accept alms from the pilgrims, and in the evening a candlelight procession circles thepavilions at the lower level of the complex. Far from being a purely solemn event, the festival is also characterised by a myriad of more worldly diversions such as boat races, cock fighting and kick-boxing competitions. In the evenings popular music and drinking add to the revelry.

Si Phan Don

The lower Mekong offers scenic beauty and a glimpse into the remote rural communities of southern Laos. The Mekong is at its widest here, up to 12 km (8 miles) across during the rainy season, and when the waters recede many small islands emerge. It is from this phenomenon that the Si Phan Don region takes its name, meaning “four thousand islands”.

One of the larger and permanently inhabited islands – 6 km (4 miles) at it widest, 12 km (8 miles) north to south – is Don Khong, located about 120 km (75 miles) downstream from Wat Phu. There is charming accommodation in restored French villas in Muang Khong, and a small choice of bucolic restaurants. Don Khong can be explored by bicycle; a reasonable dirt road goes right round the island, linking several beautiful temples and villages.

Further south, one hour by boat, are the magnificent Li Phi Falls. Although the falls have a drop of only a few metres, their volume and power are impressive. A second set of falls is located about 500 metres (550 yards) further downstream. Fishermen use traps and nets in the pools at the base of the falls. A unique attraction is the endangered Irrawaddy dolphin, which can occasionally be seen in this part of the Mekong. 

Bolaven Plateau

Directly east from Champasak and Si Phan Don, the lush Bolaven Plateau is known for its temperate climate and Mon-Khmer minority peoples; indeed, the name Bolaven means “place of the Laven”, once the predominant ethnic group in the region. Other attractions include waterfalls, boat cruises and, for those so inclined, visits to the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Hotels and travel agencies in Pakse offer a variety of guided tours to the region, ranging from day trips to three- to four-day itineraries. 

The plateau spreads over Salavan, Sekong, Champasak and Attapeu provinces, and with an average altitude of 1,200 metres (4,000ft) the area is suitable for the cultivation of temperate crops. The French introduced the production of coffee, which today is a major enterprise in the region.